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Oil-Based Clear Protective Finishes
Minwax® Clear Brushing Lacquer
Minwax® Clear Brushing Lacquer is a clear, protective finish for wood and metal. Minwax® Clear Brushing Lacquer dries to the touch in 30 minutes, ensuring a smooth, dust-free finish. It requires no sanding between coats.
Product Details
| Sheens: | Gloss, Semi-Gloss, Satin |
| Application tool: | high quality natural bristle brush |
| Location: | interior wood surfaces |
| Dry time: | dries to the touch in 30 minutes |
| Recoat: | after 2 hours |
| Cleanup: | lacquer thinner |
| Coverage: | 125 sq. ft. per quart |
| Coats: | at least 3 |
| Recommended uses: | woodwork, cabinets, furniture, interior doors, accessories |
FAQ
Q. What products are in the Minwax® Clear Brushing Lacquer program?
The Minwax® Lacquer program consists of Minwax® Clear Brushing Lacquer and Minwax® Lacquer Sanding Sealer. The Clear Brushing Lacquer is available in three sheens: Clear Gloss, Clear Semi-Gloss, and Clear Satin. Both the Clear Brushing Lacquer and the Lacquer Sanding Sealer are available in gallons, quarts, and as aerosols.
Q. What is Minwax® Clear Brushing Lacquer?
Minwax® Clear Brushing Lacquer is a beautiful, clear protective finish for wood and metal. It is ideal for interior wood surfaces, and can be used over bare or stained wood. It dries to the touch in 30 minutes, ensuring a smooth, dust-free finish. Recoat in only two hours, with no sanding needed between coats. The finish flows evenly across the wood to provide a smooth surface. Once Minwax® Clear Brushing Lacquer has been applied, another coat can be applied without having to remove the old lacquer finish.
Q. What is the difference between Minwax® Clear Brushing Lacquer and Minwax® Fast-Drying Polyurethane? Why might I use lacquer instead of polyurethane?
Lacquer and polyurethane are very different chemically. Each offers advantages in certain circumstances:
| Lacquer | Polyurethane | |
| Durability | Lacquers are less durable than polyurethanes. | Polyurethanes are more durable than lacquers. In fact, polyurethanes are the most durable clear coatings available to DIYers. |
| Repairability/ touch- ups | Lacquers are easier to repair than polyurethanes. Just touch up with lacquer, and patches will blend with the existing coat. | Polyurethanes are harder to repair than lacquers. Most attempts to patch a finish will show. |
| Leveling/brush strokes | An amazing thing about lacquer is how brush strokes just level out. While over-brushing can sometimes cause brush strokes, this happens less often than with a polyurethane. Even flaws in previous coats are usually fixed when a new coat is applied, since the new coat melts into the old coat. | Brush marks level out while poly is still wet. But if over-brushed, and brushed while poly is starting to dry, brush strokes tend to stay in the coat. Flaws in prior coats can be helped by applying a new coat, but often can still be seen. |
| Sanding | Since one coat melts into prior coats, there is no need to sand for adhesion. Also, since each coat dries to the touch in 30 minutes or less, there is less time for dust and debris to fall into the wet coating. The result is a smoother finish. | Consumers usually have to sand between coats for adhesion and for smoothness. |
| Recommended uses | For interior use only. Ideal for use on fine furniture and cabinetry. Lacquers can be used over metals. Lacquers are not recommended for use on floors – polyurethane is the better, more durable option. | Interior furniture, molding, floors. Some special polyurethanes (spar urethanes) can also be used outdoors. Polyurethanes are especially good for use on floors due to their high level of durability. Polyurethanes are not recommended for use on metals. |
| Dry time | 30 minutes to the touch, 2 hours or less to recoat. | 4-6 hours to recoat. |
| Ventilation | Very strong odor. Proper ventilation is important, as well as control of sources of sparks, as fumes can ignite. | Milder odor and less flammable. Proper ventilation is still strongly recommended. |
| Ambering | Minwax® Lacquers dry without adding any color to the wood, and do not amber. | Minwax® oil based polyurethanes do amber, giving a warm glow to the wood. Minwax® Polycrylic, however, does not amber, and dries without adding any color to the wood. |
Q. Sanding is not required between coats of Minwax® Clear Brushing Lacquer. What if I want an ultra-smooth finish? Can I sand if I choose to?
Usually, sanding between coats of lacquer is unnecessary. Consumers can choose to sand between coats of lacquer if they want a very smooth finish, but they do not have to.
Q. What is Minwax® Lacquer Sanding Sealer? How is it used?
Minwax® Lacquer Sanding Sealer is formulated to work as a base coat under Minwax® Brushing Lacquer. It is easy to sand, dries quickly, and seals the wood in just one coat. Once sanded, it provides a smooth, even surface that is ready to be top coated with Minwax® Brushing Lacquer. For consumers who want an ultra-smooth finish, we recommend that they apply a coat of our Minwax® Lacquer Sanding Sealer prior to applying a coat of Minwax® Clear Brushing Lacquer.
Q. Do I have to use Minwax® Lacquer Sanding Sealer prior to using Minwax® Clear Brushing Lacquer?
Minwax® Clear Brushing Lacquer acts as its own sealer. However, you can also use Minwax® Lacquer Sanding Sealer for added smoothness.
Q. Can I use Minwax® Clear Brushing Lacquer if I also use Minwax® Sanding Sealer?
Minwax® Clear Brushing Lacquer is formulated
especially to work with the Minwax®
Lacquer Sanding Sealer.
Note: Minwax® Clear Brushing Lacquer will not
work on top of the Minwax® Sanding Sealer in
the yellow can, as that product is designed to work with our polyurethanes.
Q. Can Minwax® Clear Brushing Lacquer and Minwax® Lacquer Sanding Sealer be used over Minwax® stains?
Yes, Minwax® Clear Brushing Lacquer and Minwax® Lacquer Sanding Sealer have been formulated to work within the Minwax® system. We have tested these products with our Minwax® Wood Finish™ stains, Water Based stains and Gel stains.
Note: You can choose to stain prior to applying Minwax® Lacquer Sanding
Sealer. If you do stain, be careful not to sand the sealer so aggressively
that you go through to the stain and damage the color.
Q. What type of applicator works best with Minwax® Brushing Lacquer and Sanding Sealer?
Brushing lacquers work best with either a natural bristle or a synthetic bristle brush. When choosing an applicator, the most important factor is selecting a high quality brush with tapered bristles that will enable you to “flow” the lacquer onto the wood. Avoid over-brushing, which can leave brush marks in the dried film. Do not use a foam brush, since it will dissolve!
Q. What is the difference between a brushing lacquer and a spraying lacquer?
Brushing lacquers are formulated for application with a brush. Spraying lacquers are formulated to be applied using specialized spray equipment. Spraying lacquers do not give satisfactory results when they are applied with a brush, as they are sticky, hard to brush out, and leave a streaky finish. They also dry very quickly. They tend to be difficult for a DIYer work with. Brushing lacquers, on the other hand, dry quickly, but leave enough open time to be able to brush them on and get a very smooth, streak-free finish. They are easier to work with.
Q. What is the VOC level of the Minwax® Lacquers?
The products in the Minwax® Lacquer line have been formulated be sold anywhere in the US, including California. The VOC of the Clear Brushing Lacquer is 680 g/l, while that of the Sanding Sealer is 550 g/l.
Q. Can lacquer be used over polyurethane? Can polyurethane be used over lacquer?
Polyurethanes and lacquers are not compatible with each other. Applying one over the other may cause problems with adhesion.
Q. Is lacquer the same as shellac?
No. Despite the similarities in their names, Shellac and lacquer are not the same, and are not related. Shellac is an insect resin secreted by the Lac bug, which lives in India and Southeast Asia. Shellac's solvent is alcohol. Lacquer is based on cellulose nitrate (nitrocellulose) with resins added to make it less brittle, and nitrocellulose is made from wood pulp. Lacquer's solvent is lacquer thinner.
While both lacquer and shellac are traditional finishes, lacquer is more durable than shellac.
Directions
WARNING! Removal of old paint by sanding, scraping or other means may generate dust or fumes that contain lead. Exposure to lead dust or fumes may cause brain damage or other adverse health effects, especially in children or pregnant women. Controlling exposure to lead or other hazardous substances requires the use of proper protective equipment such as a properly fitted respirator (NIOSH approved) and proper containment and cleanup. For more information, call the National Lead Information Center at 1-800-424-LEAD (in US) or contact your local health authority.
- Surface must be dry and free of old finishes in poor condition, paint, wax, grease, polish, dirt or other foreign matter. Note: Do not apply lacquer over polyurethane finishes.
- Sand to obtain a smooth, uniform surface. Remove all dust with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits.
- Apply Minwax® Wood Finish™ stain or Minwax® Lacquer Sanding Sealer, if desired, following label directions.
- Stir Minwax® Clear Brushing Lacquer well before and during use to rotate the product from the bottom to the top of the can. NEVER SHAKE.
- Apply a coat of lacquer using a high quality natural or synthetic bristle brush. On unfinished wood, apply sufficient lacquer to seal open joints, edges and end grain.
- Let dry at least two hours, then apply a second coat.
- Apply a third coat, repeating the steps above for each coat. Apply a fourth coat, if desired.
- After final coat, allow at least 24 hours before normal use.
CLEAN-UP: For easy clean-up use lacquer thinner.
COVERAGE: Approximately 125 sq. ft. per quart.
Note: Above dry times and coverage rates are based on good ventilation,
temperature of 77° F and 50% relative humidity. Lower temperature,
higher humidity, lack of ventilation or application of thick coats will
extend dry time. Always test tackiness between coats. Do not recoat if
surface is still tacky. Slight ambering may be experienced when lacquer
is applied over light-colored stains or wood surfaces. Always spot test
on an inconspicuous area to ensure satisfactory results. Minwax® Clear
Brushing Lacquer is not recommended for use on floors. To protect floors,
use Minwax® Super Fast-Drying Polyurethane for Floors or Minwax®Water
Based Polyurethane for Floors.
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