Frequently Asked Questions

Q:  What are the steps to wood finishing?

1. Prepare
2. Stain
3. Protect

1. Prepare includes preparing the wood's surface and wood conditioning. Before you start a refinishing or finishing project, be sure that the wood's surface is dry and free of old finishes in poor condition, paint, wax, grease, polish dirt or other foreign matter. If you plan to stain (we'll talk about staining later), the surface must usually be completely free of old finishes.

Repair any cracks, gouges, nail holes and other defects. Minwax^® makes products that can help in this process. Once the repairs are done, sand to obtain a smooth, uniform surface. Sand in the direction of the wood's grain. Once sanding is done, remove all sanding dust.

If you plan to stain (we'll talk about staining in the next step), apply a Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner. This will help you obtain an even stain color and reduce blotchiness, even on woods that are prone to blotching, such as pine or aspen. Minwax makes two Pre-Stain Wood Conditioners - one for use prior to Minwax water-based stains, and one for use prior to Minwax oil-based stains.

2. Staining is actually an optional step. Stains add rich color to the wood, while allowing the natural beauty of the wood to show through. If you are already satisfied with the color of your wood, you can skip ahead to Step 3, Protect.

Minwax^® makes a wide variety of stains, each with unique benefits. Options range from oil-based stains, both traditional and gel, to water-based stains.

Before staining, test the selected stain on a hidden area of the wood or on a scrap piece from your project. This will help you ensure that the finished color is what you desire.

To apply a stain, follow the stain's label directions. Most stains can be applied with a brush or rag, working the stain into the wood. Always give the stain a final stroke in the same direction of the wood's grain. Allow the stain to penetrate according to the label's directions, then remove the excess stain with a rag, again wiping in the direction of the grain. Apply a second coat if you need a darker color, then let the stain dry.

3. Protect with a clear finish. While wood stains bring out the beauty of the wood, protective clear finishes preserve the wood and enhance its beauty. Whether you choose to stain your wood project or not, it is important that you protect the wood with a clear finish. A clear finish will protect wood against water, household chemicals, food stains and wear.

The Minwax Company offers a variety of protective clear finishes. You can choose from oil-based, water-based, interior, exterior, and even convenient wipe-on finishes. Most are available in satin, semi-gloss and gloss sheens.

Selecting the sheen is a matter of personal preference. The gloss level will affect the appearance of your piece, but not its durability.

Before you apply the clear finish, stir it well. Do not shake the can, as this can cause bubbles in the finish. To apply the clear finish, follow the finish's label directions. Apply the finish in thin coats, moving in the direction of the wood's grain.

Q:  Why is the wood blotchy after I stain pine or other soft woods?

Minwax^® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner is specifically designed for use before staining new or bare soft and porous wood surfaces. It penetrates the grain of the wood to promote uniform acceptance of stain. Prior to staining, apply a liberal coat of the Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner. Allow it to penetrate for 5-15 minutes, then wipe away the excess with a cloth. In fact, for highly absorbent woods, you can then apply a second coat, wait, and wipe away the excess again.

After you apply the Conditioner, apply the stain within two hours. Also, consider using Minwax^® Gel Stain. Gel Stains are heavy-bodied, and so do not dive as deep into the wood as regular stains do. Because of this, they are often less affected by the condition of the wood, and can help you get a more even appearance on difficult woods.

Q:  How do I get the right stain color?

Before you apply stain to your piece, try it out either on an inconspicuous area of the piece or else on some sample wood that you used when you built the piece. Stain it in the same way you plan to stain your piece, following all the same steps. In this way, you can adjust the color and get it right before you tackle the real thing.

Getting dark, rich color with stain

Often, the first coat of stain gives you exactly the color you are looking for. However, there are times when you want a darker, richer color of stain.

To achieve a darker stain color, use coarser grit of sandpaper (#150-#180) on the last sanding you do prior to staining. This will help the wood absorb more color.

You can also leave the wet stain on the wood for longer before you wipe away the excess - sometimes as long as 15 minutes (check the label directions for the particular stain you're using to see the maximum time that they recommend). This may help you achieve a deeper color. In addition, you can try a second coat of stain to see if it deepens.

Sometimes, the wet stain is exactly the color you are looking for, but when the stain dries, it goes dull. Often, applying the clear topcoat will make the stain's color rich again. Try staining a sample (same material as your piece) and after it dries, apply the topcoat you plan on using. The topcoat will usually give the stain the depth, richness and warmth that you are after. Oil based topcoats, such as Minwax^® Fast-Drying Polyurethane, will impart some additional warmth and depth, while the water based topcoats, such as Polycrylic®, usually dry crystal clear. Test both and see which look you prefer.

Q:  Why is the stain still tacky after I applied it?

To get rid of the excess stain now, take a cloth dampened with mineral spirits and use that to scrub down the piece. This should remove the excess stain. Alternatively, apply another coat of stain, wait a couple of minutes for it to soften up the old, tacky, excess stain, then take a cloth and rub away the excess.

If you did wipe away the excess stain, then the stain may be having a problem drying or sinking into the wood. Did you apply the stain to bare wood? If so, for information on drying problems, see the Frequently Asked Question "Why is it taking so long for the stain to dry?". If not, than that is the problem. Stain is designed to be applied to bare wood so the wood can absorb the stain. If there is already a clear finish on the wood, the stain can't be absorbed. Remove the clear finish now, then re-stain.

Q:  Why is it taking so long for the stain to dry?

• Humid weather
• Cold temperature
• Poor ventilation
• Thick coats

Humid weather - when the weather is humid, you can either wait to finish your piece on a drier day, or else work in an area with lower humidity, like an air conditioned room or a room with a dehumidifier. If you do this, be sure to have the air conditioner pulling in air from outside, and not just recirculating indoor air, as poor ventilation can also extend dry times.

Cold temperature - temperatures below the mid-70 degree F range can cause longer dry times. Most people don't consciously notice longer dry times until the temperature gets below about 50 degrees. Above that temperature, the dry times may be longer, but it's usually imperceptible.

Lacquers can have special problems during cold weather. Lacquers can sometimes blush, or get whitish and cloudy, when applied in cold weather, especially if the weather is cold and damp. The best choice is to apply the lacquer in a warmer space. If the lacquer has already blushed, try bringing the piece into a warmer space. Sometimes, if that doesn't work, applying another coat of lacquer will help.

Poor ventilation - when the area you're working in has poor ventilation, this can cause the finish to take longer to dry. To help the finish dry faster, try opening doors and windows. If your room has multiple windows, try putting one fan, facing out, in one window; and another fan, facing in, in a second window. This will help create an air flow through the room that will help the finish dry faster.

Thick coats - most clear finishes dry better when they are applied in thin coats, rather than thick coats. The final appearance of the finish is often better, too. Try to apply several thin coats, rather than a couple of thicker coats. If your coat did go down too thickly, just wait it out. With time and patience, it will dry.

Finishing in humid weather

The #1 problem caused by humidity is longer drying times for stains and clear finishes. If it's humid out, you can usually expect the stain or clear finish to take longer to dry than it says on the label. However, if you're patient, it will dry. If possible, you can take steps to lower the humidity, like turning on the air conditioner or dehumidifier. If you use the air conditioning, try to have it pulling in air from outside, and not just recirculating indoor air, as poor ventilation can also extend dry times.

Humidity can also sometimes cause some clear finishes to blush, or take on a whitish, cloudy haze after they are applied to the wood. This is caused by moisture getting trapped under the finish. Often, once the humid weather stops, the blush will go away as the moisture evaporates. Sometimes the blush needs some encouragement to leave. You can try using a hair dryer to remove small spots of blush from a finish. Turn the hair dryer on, and kept its warm air moving over small areas of the blush. This takes several minutes, but can often really help. With lacquers, you can sometimes get rid of the blush by applying another coat of lacquer. Lastly, if all else fails, you can remove the finish and try again on a less humid day.

Q:  Why do I get white rings in the finish?

To fix the ring, slightly dampen a soft cloth with denatured alcohol and wipe the damaged area very, very gently, then let it dry. If the cloud is still there, repeat after two minutes. Don't use too much denatured alcohol, and don't rub hard, or you can damage the finish.

If this doesn't work, you can often repair the white rings by buffing the damaged area of the surface with a mild abrasive. For example, use a soft, dampened cloth and baking soda mixed with non-gel toothpaste to buff. Buff the white ring using a gentle, circular motion. Sometimes this is enough, but sometimes this buffing causes this area of finish to have a different sheen than the rest of the tabletop. When this happens, you can use paste wax across the entire surface of the tabletop to even out the sheen, or sand the entire surface lightly and apply a new coat of clear finish. If the ring has not disappeared after about five minutes of buffing, then the stain is probably too deep to be fixed through such mild methods. The table will probably have to be refinished - try the Formby's^® Face Lift Kit.

Q:  Why do I get bubbles in the polyurethane?

• Moisture in the wood
• Using a poor quality brush
• Using a roller, instead of a brush
• Shaking the can of polyurethane
• Over brushing the polyurethane on the wood

Moisture in the wood - Be sure that the wood you are using is dry and in good shape before you apply any finish, including polyurethane. Be especially cautious of wood that has been stored outdoors or in a moist environment, and give it plenty of time to dry out before you try to finish it. Otherwise, the finish may trap the moisture in the wood, causing problems as the moisture tries to escape, including bubbles.

Using a poor quality brush - To prevent bubbles, use a good quality brush. For an oil based polyurethane, such as Minwax^® Fast-Drying Polyurethane, use a natural bristle brush. For a water based polyurethane like Polycrylic^®, use a synthetic brush.

Shaking the can of polyurethane - Do not shake the polyurethane - instead, stir it so that you rotate the polyurethane from the bottom to the top of the can. Shaking will create bubbles in the polyurethane that will show up in your finish. If you did accidentally shake the can, let it rest for a while before you use it so that you give the bubbles time to break.

Over brushing the polyurethane on the wood - As you apply the polyurethane to the wood, use the brush to lay the polyurethane down, and do not brush back and forth across the surface. Once the polyurethane is down on the wood, take the dry brush and "tip off" the finish by holding the brush at a 45 degree angle to the wood, and running it lightly in the direction of the grain across the surface of the polyurethane - think of feathering the polyurethane in. This breaks any bubbles that may have appeared, and also helps to blend one section of the polyurethane with surrounding sections.

Q:  What happens if I get drips or dust in the clear finish?

Drips can occur when too thick of a coat of a clear finish is applied. To prevent drips, try to apply thin coats. You will often get a better result if you apply several thin coats of finish, building up the film slowly, rather than a couple of thicker coats.

If drips do occur, you can sand them out, or use a flat razor blade to very carefully scrape the excess away. You can then apply a new coat of polyurethane across the entire surface to even out the sheen and appearance.

Dust in clear finish

Isn't it always the case - you apply the polyurethane or other clear finish perfectly, then leave to let it dry. You come back to the room, and - dust has fallen into your topcoat!

It seems that any dust in the environment is magnetically attracted to your wet polyurethane. If this happens, don't despair. Sand just enough to smooth the surface, then apply another coat of polyurethane.

To help prevent dust from falling into and sticking to your polyurethane, apply thin coats. Thin coats dry more quickly, giving dust less time to fall into the wet film. Also, be sure to remove all the dust on your piece and in your work area in between your coats. Make several passes across the piece with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits before you apply your next coat. Also try to keep your work area very clean.

Q:  How can I apply PolyShades® evenly?

Since PolyShades® has the stain color suspended in the clear topcoat, if you aren't careful, any drips, runs or unevenness can show up in the final result. To get a great result with PolyShades, apply several very thin coats, building up the film and color slowly, rather than a couple of thicker coats. Be sure to stir the can thoroughly before you use it, and again occasionally during use. Apply the product with a good quality, natural bristle brush, and move the brush in the direction of the wood's grain. Be sure to maintain a wet edge — where one pass with the brush touches a prior pass — so that the areas blend together once they are dry.

Q:  What finishes are best for outdoor use?

UV in sunlight, moisture, humidity, rain, and temperature shifts - all of these factors can really do a number on your wood. If your wood is going to be outdoors, it is best to protect it with a finish designed for use outdoors, like Helmsman^® or Clearshield^®. These types of products offer outdoor wood special protection against UV light, temperature changes and moisture. They work great on most outdoor wood, but on large surfaces that would be hard to maintain, like a deck, it would be better to use a product like a Thompson's^® Waterseal^® which does not need to be stripped or sanded in order to be refinished.

Q:  How do I repair scratches, nicks and holes in finished wood?

Many minor scratches in wood that go through the color can be repaired through the use of a Minwax^® Stain Marker. For deeper scratches and for nicks in the wood, a Blend-Fil^® Pencil will do the trick. For filling nail holes and some small gouges, Minwax^®Wood Putty will work well. Each one comes in a variety of colors designed to match Minwax stains.

For minor scratches or nicks in your clear finish, try Wipe-On Poly. It even works to touch up small scratches on floors. Just be careful when you apply it, as the gloss level may not be identical to the finish you already have on your floor. Test it in a small area first.